Guest Article - Wonderful Gardens of Somerset
Thursday, March 22nd, 2012Tucked away in the scenic countryside, just to the west of Salisbury Plan is a narrow strip of greensand, and it is no surprise that three great estates concentrate here. Today, Longleat and Stourhead, two of the most famous landscapes in the world still benefit from perfect growing condition and give great pleasure to the many garden visitors.
Heaven’s Gate is well named. As one drives down the mile long entrance to Longleat House through the magnificent collection of bright flowering rhododendron, azalea, cornus and unusual Monkey Puzzle and Handkerchief Trees, you pass through Heaven’s Gate and find the view over the Safari Park and the amazing Longleat House. The house was built on the site of a former monastic building and has been in the same family for many generations. The house is a triumph of the Renaissance built by Italian craftsmen but in the eighteenth century when the Marquis of Bath employed ‘Capability’ Brown to design the 280 ha. park, he did it with his usual genius and complete lack of regard for cost.
Few miles away London banker, Henry Hoare commissioned Colen Campbell in 11721 to design Stourhead House. Like Longleat, the house is well worth a visit, but the eighteenth century gardens are one of the National Trust’s most visited properties. His grandson, also Henry, was an inspired amateur and influenced by his Grand Tour created a circular walk around the lake with a surprising collection of garden buildings such as Neptune’s Grotto, the Temple of Flora, the Roman Bridge and the distant Alfred’s Tower where Lady Ada Hoare used to play her grand piano in the turret at the top in the middle of the night so the music could be heard in the woods. These sumptuous surroundings have been the setting of many a period costume drama, and you may recognise the Temple of the Sun as the dramatic setting where a rain-soaked Mr. Darcy declared his love to Eliza Bennett in the recent Oscar-nominated adaption of Jane Austin’s Pride and Prejudice. Throughout the generations Henry’s descendents have continued to cherish the garden and added numerous ornamental shrubs and exotic trees. Since the National Trust took over the gardens, it has kept up the family’s work maintaining the garden to a very high standard and, importantly, being prepared to cut plants back where necessary so the views across the lake to the various garden buildings and distant downs is unspoilt. Spring here is not to be missed as the first bulbs and shoots appear but the autumn is almost as popular with rustling leaves and the glorious reds, yellow and oranges reflect in the water.
A short walk down the road from Stourhead is Stourhead House Garden, created by the eccentric Elizabeth Bullivant where wilderness and gardening create a very different but equally dramatic effect. It has a rare collection of daffodils, one of the largest Caucasian Wing Nut Trees in England and its very own Virburnum Plicatum, Elizabeth Bullivant, as well as over 270 different varieties of hydrangea.
Continue along the narrow country lanes to the next village to see two special, if less grand, gardens regularly open under the National Gardens Scheme. Chiff Chaffs, also a RHS garden, is charming and overflows with traditional roses, bulbs and herbaceous plants which echo the character of the 400 year old cottage and it is worth taking time to stroll around the woodland garden to see the sun streaming through the spring leaves and enjoy the smell of soft pine needles.
Though there are many wonderful gardens within this small area, the final one to mention is Snape Cottage. This has an exceptional collection of hardy plants and bulbs artistically arranged in an informal cottage garden style, all organically managed and clearly labelled. There is a wonderful tranquil atmosphere with a wildlife pond and stunning views.
You will need a cup of tea after all the garden visiting and Carrie Bullivant’s tearoom at Stourton House is not to be missed. Her cream teas and calorific cakes are legendary.
Written by Sarah FitzGerald.
Sarah is Vice Chairman of the Dorset Gardens Trust and rents out a charming self-catering cottage at nearby Pen Mill Cottage. Sleeping 6 adults with a child’s bed, this spacious cottage has a lovely garden extending up the valley with views over the ponds – perfect for relaxing with a glass of wine in your hand after a busy day sightseeing.
Peter and Sarah FitzGerald’s garden is open for the National Gardens Scheme on
Sunday 27th May and Sunday 16th September 2012.